Thursday, December 15, 2011

Street Art and Lots of Food...Jour Trois

Our day started a bit later than usual with a 1:30 pm lunch reservation at MBC in the 17th arrondissement.  Helena, a friend and Christmas Market companion of Anouk, joined us.  


The walls were covered in artwork - not just an everyday form of artwork but Street Art.  I had never really been exposed to street art until VERY recently (like 5 days ago).  First a friend posts about how she was at Art Basel Miami and purchased her first piece of "real art" from Mr. Brainwash, and goes into a bit of detail as to what Street Art is.  This morning Anouk tells me that she saw this movie about street art and then stumbled upon this restaurant that is decorated entirely in that manner.  Check out Anouk's post on our lunch experience here

My meal started off with cauliflower soup (which reminded me of my favorite soups from Ireland), followed by a sliced beef and beet salad main course 


and ended nicely with a cafe' and meringues (and a glass of wine somewhere between the soup and beef).  

After we thoroughly enjoyed our meals, Anouk and I took tons of pictures of the restaurant.  







Ready to walk off our lunch, we headed towards Montmartre in the 18th arrondissement, where we met up with Anouk's friend Helen.  After getting a bit lost, we finally found our way to her, who was waiting in front of the Moulin Rouge.   


The Montmartre is a huge hill, with the Basilica de Sacre' Coeur (Basilica of the Sacred Heart) at its highest point (this is the highest point in Paris).  Along the way I purchased some delicious biscuits from the Biscuiterie de Montmartre.  I would have taken pictures but they were so good, we ate them before I had a chance.  :)  


We strolled through a great little clothing shop, Antoine et Lili.  This bright colored location is the first one opened in Paris - and of course I had to purchase a little something (you can never have too many black cardigans!).  The girl that helped me was super helpful.  OK, I got a pair of earrings too...


On the travels northward, I spotted this one picture in a store window that I had to purchase for my parents.  It reminded me so much of my Grandma Anna.  Once I give the gift to them, I will take a photo for this post.  It's a favorite painting of mine.  


The view from the basilica is breathtaking.  


The day was not over there...we didn't have dinner yet!!!  Walking down the hill was way easier, and my legs thanked me for that.  Still in the 18th arrondissement, we met a group of Anouk's friends at Refuge des Fondues.  


This place is a trip!  It is very tiny and in order for you to sit against the wall portion of the table, you have to climb over the table.  
Try that after two baby bottles of wine.  YES, I said baby bottles of wine - that is how they serve it!  So funny!!!  


After the cheese and meat fondue, we had an interesting dessert - lemon sorbet inside of a frozen lemon - very refreshing.  On to the bar!


We walked around a bit, trying to find this one bar that Anouk heard great reviews on, but it was no longer there so we landed at Long Island.  YES - I was in Paris at a bar named Long Island.  Ironic.  



Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Deuxieme Journee (Day Two)

This vacation has lived up to everything I imagined and then some - & I'm only on Day 2! 
Our exploration began with the Chapel of our Lady of the Miraculous Medal.  It was said that the nun, Catherine Laboure's body lies in a glass coffin on display at 140 Rue de Bac.  (Catherine Laboure's body was exhumed in 1933, and the church judged it incorrupt.)  We didn't know what to expect so we entered the chapel and walked to the front, where the coffin was located.  She was tiny!  Of course, they had a wax mask on her face and some believe that it is not truly her, but just the thought of her body lying there...whoa.  Here is a picture from Wikipedia. It looks a bit different than what we saw, but I wasn't about to take my camera out with dozens of people around me!  (I really think she was wearing a different outfit.)

Catherine Leboure's body
On to  Le Bon Marche for some fabulous French shopping (something I tend to do best).  I found a great "personalized gift" for my parents, as well as a gorgeous infinity scarf by a Paris artist (www.meilleuramiparis.com); and a super cute headband with a leather bow.  Princess Tam Tam is a lingerie company that is not sold in the US - and one that I wish truly was!  (They don't even ship to the US!)
Le Bon Marche...Paris's Barneys :)
We stopped for a quick snack at the Bon Marche cafe' where we ate some delicious grilled vegetables and a quesadilla filled with cheese and veggies.  A perfect meal to fill us until dinner.  Le Bon Marche' also has an exquisite food market across the street and we had to visit!  Here is where I picked up some of the mini versions of my sons' favorite lollipops (I tasted them to make sure they were acceptable LOL). 

I had  inquired, when I arrived, of the brands of handbags that were manufactured exclusively in Paris and Anouk introduced me to Lancel.  Once entering the store, we were offered a glass of champagne (nice touch) and off I went in search of the perfect bag from Paris.  The first bag I chose was a brown bag and was told the bag was no longer available in the color and size I initially wanted - so I looked around some more.  I loved the shape of the initial bag of my dreams and kept going back to it, so I just had to determine the best color.  Gray won!  Here is a picture of the style of bag...the gray is so new, it is not on their site yet!

I also stopped into an undisclosed store to purchase my husband a super fabulous gift (to be revealed at a later time...like when he opens the box!)

The Christmas lights in each of the areas we have visited have been so festive, especially in this arrondissement.  
Lights outside of Cartier 




On to the first ever Christmas Market for me at Saint Germaine!  Anouk introduced me to mulled (hot) wine while we browsed the vendors' fares. 
Hot wine and shopping!

Happy camper!
Hotel de Ville, in the 4th arrondissement, is Paris' city hall.  It was lit up beautifully with sparkling lights across the rooftop.  We watched the workers build an ice rink and noted yet another carousel nearby.  
Hotel de ville
On to Marais, in the 3rd arrondissement, to a highly anticipated dinner!  Anouk has been speaking of this one restaurant in particular for weeks.  She described it as a hole in the wall, but somewhere that we needed to go.  (Please note that 99% of the time, the hole in the wall restaurants are the BEST.)  On a previous visit to this restaurant, Anouk learned that reservations were a MUST.   Reservations were promptly made for
Le Felteau, ensuring us a table.  When we arrived on time for our reservation, the gentleman that greeted us at the door blurted, "Did you call?".  (Thankfully we did!)  We were seated at a table alongside the wall, so as to accommodate my shopping bags. :)

We started out with a goat cheese salad and meat platter - I wish my dad was here to try the delicious meats (it reminds me of the times my mom and dad bring over dried sausage as an appetizer when they come over for dinner.  This would be heaven for them.)  My entree was a succulent steak with potatoes Au gratin and the most flavorful carrots I've had in a long while.  Dessert was definitely a NO tonight as we ate so much I felt as if we needed to roll home. 

Thursday, December 8, 2011

New Experiences Alongside a Dear Old Friend - Part One



My first day in Paris was filled with new experiences alongside a dear old friend, Anouk.  My arrival to Paris was smooth and  uneventful (thankfully!).  Flying business class was the biggest treat ever!  I believe I was asked at least 10 times if there was anything that I needed to make my flight more comfortable.  Upon reaching my seat, I was greeted with a nice fluffy pillow and comfy blanket.  Atop those was a zippered bag filled with an eye mask, comfy socks, toothbrush and toothpaste, hand lotion, chapstick, ear plugs...all essential items needed for a long trip. 

After landing in Charles de Gaulle, I went through customs in a flash and received my luggage in record time!  Off to the taxi line I went, where I was introduced to my non-English speaking driver.  About one hour later, I was at my final destination - le chateau Danan!  YAY!!!

(Fitting my luggage and myself into the tiny lift up to Anouks' Parisian home was rather funny...so glad I did not bring more than the one large luggage!)

After catching up on happenings, a well-needed two hour nap and a great cup of cafe', Anouk and I were off to walk the city of lights!  First phenomenal view...the Eiffel Tower!  It is minutes from her home!! 


Anouk chose a local restaurant to start our "day" - L'Ogre.  Super cute, very meat oriented, this spot is very charming.  We ordered fois gras (my first ever time trying this!) and then followed it up with a burger.  This wasn't just any burger (and I know my close friends reading this are thinking, "Of course - you go to France and get a burger." Au contrair!).  This burger didn't have a conventional bun - the "bun" was two delicious potato pancakes...did I mention the yummy cheese and bacon also?  I wish I took a picture because it was a true burger masterpiece...I think we may go back again before I leave. 

We walked...and we walked...and we walked some more.  And then it started drizzling, and then it started really raining so we decided to check out some stores on the Champs de Elysses.  We jumped from store to store, trying to stay dry (damn, I should have brought with us the umbrella my husband packed for us).  We checked out Dolce and Gabana (saw a pair of boots that resembled Sadie, my dog); a delicious smelling chocolate store;  Laduree for macarons; then to The Drugstore for coffee and more macarons - the creme brulee one was my favorite.  YUM!!  The Arc de Triomphe was right there - outside The Drugstore...amazing!!  (and a Cartier store as well LOL).  It amazes me how almost anywhere you walk, you come across some of the most beautiful, historic monuments...amongst the everyday life of the Parisians. 


Back to Nook's house for a rest, a shower and some wine - and then we were off again!  Dinner was astounding!  Anouk took me to Kura - a fabulous Japanese restaurant that she has been meaning to go to.   I don't think we knew what we had gotten in to - even after we reviewed the menu.  I have to list the amount of food we ate....insane and delicious (in order, of course).
  1. Foie gras with a sweet mango sauce (notice this is the second time in one day I have tried this new dish!) paired with a sweet peach infused wine
  2. Pumpkin tempura (delicious) paired with a crisp white wine
  3. Tofu, crab, shrimp and green bean roll (not my favorite but very interesting)
  4. Interesting egg roll filled with white rice, veggies and tofu
  5. Three pieces of yellow tail and 2 pieces of the BEST tuna, paired with a strong chilled sake.
  6. Main course (are you full and tired by now?) - beef cheeks (yes, I typed beef cheeks) with root vegetables and steamed white rice, and miso soup all paired with red wine.
  7. FINALLY - sweet sorbet dessert and these delicious puff pastries.
And I wondered why a few hours later I didn't feel so good!  The food was delicious, and I enjoyed it immensely - maybe too much?  :)